Wien

So here we are in Vienna. Arrived mid morning flying in over lush green fields. A changed landscape.

Beforehand we flew past lots of wind turbines dotting the landscape. They had red and striped blades – very striking. Our taxi from the airport was a Mercedes driven (very fast – 140) by a man from Istanbul – from near Istiklal Cadessi. He’s been here for 25 years. Doesn’t like flying, so when he goes back to Istanbul he drives. Dropped us a little distance from our hotel because it’s in a pedestrian precinct, so we rolled our cases across a cobbled square and down our lane way.

We are at the Pertschy Pensione; a former palace. You come in from the street through an archway. There’s a glass elevator to take you to reception on the first floor and on to your rooms.

We are on the second. But I prefer to come up the big stone staircase that is off the courtyard where horse drawn carriages would have set people down. But where there are now fancy cars and a restaurant.

Our room is big and high ceilinged with a chandelier and two elegant bay windows with floor length curtains. There is an impressive green porcelain stove in the corner – which I imagine is the same as those described in The Hare With Amber Eyes. There are a couple of chairs, a coffee table, wardrobe and side-tables and a rickety looking modern fan. Also a bathroom, including bath, tucked away in the corner. The children are not greatly impressed that we are all in a single room, albeit a large one. They are appalled by the rudimentary pull out double sofa bed they are expected to sleep on. It’s very hard – worse than any they’ve endured in youth hostels all around Europe! We have asked for extra padding given we are here for a week and will see if that eventuates today.

Great location. Near lots of the tourist attractions that Joe is keen to explore. Stefansplatz, the Hofburg, the Ringstrasse. And close to lots of shops the kids are very keen to check out – Zara and H&M. Designer shops everywhere you look – great window displays. This is Chanel.

We went for a wander. Sunday so shops not open and started off quiet with not many people around. But by mid afternoon there were lots. Mostly well heeled middle aged (kids would say old) tourists. Enjoyable walk, past the Opera House, along the Ringstrasse where we passed Goethe.

Through Heldenplatz (Place of Heroes) (where Austrians welcomed Hitler in 1938), past statues depicting the seven labours of Hercules. The Hofburg, place of the Habsburgs.

On to another Platz, more statues, an excavation site (relatively recent – the nineties) revealing the foundations of Roman housing and plumbing. This is a famous statue celebrating the end of the plague that is just around from our hotel.

Joe and I had lunch at the Cafe Griensteid. Had to wait in a queue but not for long. He had schnitzel and white wine, I had venison goulash and red wine. All good.

Back to the hotel for a sleep. We’d got up at 5.30 and the early start was taking a toll. Afterwards out another stroll. Walked back to the nearest square to the sound of crashing piano chords – there was a woman playing a baby grand! Serious busking in Vienna. Later we saw a man playing a cello. We walked past the Spanish Riding School stables where you could see the horses quite clearly in streets I remembered when I was here last. We were en route to a place where Joe thought there was a less touristy and maybe younger eating precinct. Back past the Opera by night.

Past The Third Man tour starting point (the film is playing there on a constant loop), past the Secession – the movement that supported the modernists including Klimt, along a street with some edgy design. Not a lot of restaurants open – a vegan one, an English pub.

We settled on the Beograd. Very atmospheric. Piano accordion being played as we entered. White stucco walls ornamented with cello’s, kilims, paintings. White table clothes, heavy wooden chairs. Red waist coated waiters. We were asked whether we wanted the Deutsch or English menus. Good food – steaks, schnitzel and a version of beef stroganoff – and wine. We compared who had been to most counties – Joe won, but we have all been to around fifteen. The children will outstrip us by a long shot – globalised world we live in.

Back to the Pertschy through still lively streets at eleven o’clock. People were coming into the restaurant and ordering meals as we were leaving. A couple of bars we passed were hopping. Night owls the Viennese.