Lazy, rainy day

Our second quiet day (Tuesday 25 March). We visited the History of Paris museum and a wander around the area near our apartment which is in a great location here in the Marais. It was very cold and drizzling rain for most of the day. We started out having breakfast at this place. Very much a local, non-touristy affair. The workers from the building site down the road popped in for coffee. Our petit-dejourner consisted of thin slices of toast and a thick slice of home-made cake. I looked longingly at the croissants on the counter! The hot chocolate was strong and hot. Why can’t we get that in Australia?

We went on to the History of Paris Museum, which is called the Canavale. We weren’t able to get any sort of English guide either written or oral as all the audio-guides were taken. And the place is obviously on the school curriculum – as most museums here are. We managed okay. It was all very interesting. It’s an old mansion once the home of Madame de Sevigne. It gave you a great feel for the wonderful Salons that were organised by women in the eighteenth century that were a hub of artistic, intellectual and political life. I was delighted to find a portrait of Tallyrand who frequented said Salons. A great politician this chap. And a great survivor.

We were fascinated by the galleries containing objects from the French Revolution – along with all the school- kids. Locks of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette’s hair, furniture from their prison and other items, models of the guillotine (in both ivory and wood) busts and paintings of all the major players and events. The storming of the Bastille takes pride of place. There was a lot of crockery made to celebrate particular events; decorated and inscribed accordingly. The revolutionaries had their own medallions and ornaments. It was all quite fascinating. We actually ran into someone we knew while we were wandering through! The world is a small place. We would have waited and seen whether an audio guide became free but this wing of the museum was closed between 12 and 2.30 so we left. The only other picture I took was of this absolutely exquisite miniature carriage and horses. Amazing.

Out we went into the cold and decided to have lunch in a restaurant we have seen often on our walks to and from our apartment. We thought it looked good and we weren’t disappointed. It’s called Glou and is in the Rue Vieille du Temple near the Picasso Museum (currently closed for renovations).

We had a delightful waiter who offered us English menus which we accepted but thereafter he complimented me on my French. We had a wonderful meal accompanied by wines that he recommended. Our entrees were scallop carpaccio with blood orange for me and an egg cocotte with truffle for Joe. Both were spectacular.


Our two mains were also great. Mine was a foi gras pot au feu. I’ve never heard of such a thing. Very rich but delicious. Joe had veal pavee which he said was perfectly cooked accompanied not by overdone French fries but delicious parsley chips.


We went on to have Normandy apple tart and cheese-cake for dessert followed by coffees and petit fours. A long lunch. Early on we shared the upstairs space with locals including teachers from a nearby school, but we were last there. It was a lovely space and atmosphere. Modern in all respects.

We emerged into a still freezing and drizzling day but needed a walk after our long lunch so had a wander. When I bought boots on Monday the gorgeous young Frenchman who sold them to me made a distinction between the Marais and the old Marais, obviously feeling my purchase was extra special for being from the latter. Which is where we walked. It is lovely. Even on such a day as this. And especially with fewer people than on a week-end when you can hardly move here. It is full of trendy modern boutiques. So is a mixture of old and modern. Interspersed with gardens and cafés. Here’s some of where we walked.